Fahiti ho!

. "Drink it up, this one's for you.  It's been a lovely cruise."  Jimmy Buffet, 'Lovely Cruise' It's the last night on the boat.  Fittingly, I have to finish the bottle of gin.  <Done>  And to my surprise, this little packet had escaped my ravenous maw for the past few weeks.  Not tonight. And the sunset was appropriately beautiful.   Let's hear it one more time, Jimmy... Drink it up, this one's for you It's been a lovely cruise I'm sorry it's ending, oh it's sad, but it's true Honey, it's been a lovely cruise These moments we're left with May you always remember These moments are shared by few There's wind in our hair and there's water in our shoes Honey, it's been a lovely cruise - 30 -

 Things I'll bring next time: 1.  A waterproof bag.  I don't know what they call 'em, but all the seasoned cruisers had one.  You put your cell phone, wallet, sunglasses, everything that can't get wet into it and seal it.  If you fall in, it floats.  If it rains, you don't worry.  Looks dorky but there is clearly a need. 2.  Magnifying glass.  Or the flip-down magnifiers I have in my shop.  I don't know who passed the law that states all useful product information must be printed in vanishingly small type in non-contrasting colors, but if I ever find them...  (Note the use of gender-neutral pronoun...) 3.  Redundant items:  microSD cards, phone, USB charging cables,  sunglasses. Things I don't need to bring: In the spirit of full disclosure, I almost made this section a whole post.  Was going to title it "You can get anything you want..."  Arlo Guthrie, Alice's Restaurant, for you Gen Xers. I laugh looking back,  thinking that Fiji was this pri

 ...thinkin' 'bout last night.  (Traveling Wilburys, anyone?) Yeah, decided to forgo the bar tonight to minimize the chances of starting an international incident like I almost did last night...thinkin'  'bout last night... I'm the only anglo at the bar.  There were two other patrons, both well on their way.  We yelled pleasantries across the bar, I laughed at their jokes that I couldn't understand.  They got that I was from the US.  Then Paul, the really drunk one, decided I needed another beer.  Now.  Mine was only half gone and I tried to say no, but noooooooo.  The poor barmaid gave me the look as she put the bottle in front of me, unopened.  "Let me know when you want one and I'll get you  a cold one."   More pleasantries that I couldn't understand.  Then Paul decides I need yet another beer.  "Put it on my tab!"  The barmaid rolled her eyes and set a second unopened beer in front of me.   Meanwhile I opined that I had become a r

  Stuff I found essential: USB cables.    Holy wah!    I brought a charging cable for every device I brought.    I used 'em all.    The most useful was the 6' Lightning cable for my iPad.    I had a four foot one too, but the six footer allowed me to have the iPad at the helm with a connection into the cabin.    So of course the six footer bought the farm one day into the trip down to Vuda Marina.    I almost turned back, thinking if the other one went, I would be totally without navigational aids once the batteries went dead.    Luckily Tim had an extra and gave it to me.    And the rest, as they say, is history. Sunglasses.    Despite the outer protective layer peeling away, my Toreges were always on my head.    Good polarized sunglasses are a must down here to see the reefs and bommies. iPhone.    Backup navigation, cellular link to the world.    Next time, I'm bringing two.    And setting up two accounts, since they're dirt cheap.    With only a single phone, I was

 Hey, I'll bet that post title got your attention, right?  I was about to close up shop here, typing in the cockpit of a sailboat in Fiji when I got the inspiration to compare and contrast the two environs, both of which I now have some experience with.   So I'm sitting in the cockpit (did I mention this already?) watching the sunset.  Palm trees are literally swaying in the breeze, silhouetted against the purple sky.  There's a cloud bank closing in from the northwest - probably means a light shower later.  But here's the thing - I'm sitting here shirtless and there are no bugs.  None.  Temperatures are very pleasant and will be all night - the daytime/nighttime temp differential in Fiji is maybe a few degrees.   Isle Royale has its charms and unique features.  But you do have to cover up often because of the bugs, and it does get cold at night.  We use sleeping bags each trip.   On Isle Royale you can have a campfire.  Try that in Fiji.  Hah!   In Fiji the people

 ..nothing but blue skies do I see. It finally happened.  We said a heartfelt FU to Cyclones Judy and Kevin and after a few days of coattail atmospheric disturbances, the weather is great for sailing!  Except I'm not going anywhere.  Not enough time between now and the day I fly out (Saturday -  this Friday for you Norte Americanos).  I haven't been idle though... "Come see me.  We're not busy.  I'll give you a tour of our facility."  So said my new friend who works at the Fiji Civil Aviation Authority.  Cool.  I'll swing by on Wednesday (today).  So I cabbed into Nadi where I met Peter, conveniently buying chai tea from the food truck in the parking lot.  We sat through his break drinking tea and swapping stories.  He really enjoyed my tales of Captain Bill in Panama.  He's looking to buy a sailboat and be a cruiser.  I suggested gently that he should probably not spring for the 50 foot behemoth that he was describing since he didn't know anything

 ...and I have to board my boat  The guys in the guard shack adjacent to my spot are looking at me and wondering if they'll have to perform a sea rescue.  Undeterred, I manage to hook a foot over the gunwale and grab the roller furling with one hand.  I'm not a good judge of distance, but as can clearly be seen from the attached photo this was a stretch of at least six feet.  Maybe seven.  I hate high tide. But I made it.  The guys in the guard shack hollered at me.  "How old are you?"  "Seventy," I replied honestly.  "You're strong!" they hollered back.  I didn't mention the fact that I was coming back from Margarita Monday after two helpings of Vuda Marine's finest.  And strongest.   So yeah, I'm sitting here in complete dismay.  I had my hopes set on an evening with 'Exile on Main Street' which is not only one of my favorite albums but possibly THE best album of all time, thank you very much.  I was already humming 'T

 It's a Merle Haggard song.  Look it up.  It also describes me right now.  What an absolutely miserable day. The winds are blowing boats in the marina around like yo-yos.  You look down the line of boats and watch each one bounce forward and back, alternately stretching its bow and stern lines to the max.  Peregrine is slewing around like a drunken skater at the Old Timer's Tourney.  I've almost lost my footing numerous times.  Not to mention the hourly squalls with driving rain. I know, you're saying, 'Dave, it can't be that bad.  You're tied up in a marina, FFS.'  Ok, here's how bad it is:  I'm not going to the bar tonight.  That's right.  Not going.  Staying put (sort of) and making spaghetti again.  Going to open one of the last bottles of cheap Shiraz from Savusavu. munch some Tasty cheese and make spag.  Then I'll put on Netflix...oh crap now the internet's sketchy.   All this presumably is due to Kevin's backwash.  Kevin tu

 Poor Vanautu, two cyclones and now an earthquake.   https://www.bbc.com/news/world-asia-64832870 Sitting here snug in the cabin, waiting for the spaghetti to boil.  Overhead hatch leaks - WTF/  Jimmy Buffet's A1A blaring on the stereo.  The bands of squalls spun off of Kevin (now a Cat 5!) are coming about every hour.  Very few people at the marina bar tonight.  One guy was trying to tell me there's a guy named 'Dutchsinse' who can predict earthquakes with great accuracy.  Of course I had to look this up.  Turns out the guy also believes in Pizzagate, FFS.  And his 'predictions' have been shown to be no better than random guesses.  Doesn't stop the vast minions of inbred uneducated people who never passed seventh grade math from hailing him as a scientist.  What a world we live in.

I'm itching for a Happy Hour* with no one to share it with.  The Savusavu crew is going to the pizza place tonight.  They make pretty good pizza here at Vudu, too.  Tuesday is half price night; full size pizza for $12 FJD.  About $6 USD.  Actually had their ham and pineapple last time and it was the best of the ones I sampled.  Tropical cyclone Judy is safely past us and Kevin is predicted to miss us too,  The tenseness is gone from the marina - no more staff buzzing around in skiffs checking moored boats.  Still gale warnings out there, though.  I've only got eight more days in Fiji and did a food inventory.  It's hard to get fired up to make food when it's hot and windy and the food at the marina restaurant is so good and darn reasonable.  I'll be giving stuff away or throwing it, unfortunately.   Got my official return itinerary changed to leave from Nadi - a 30 minute cab drive away.  Fiji air was very accommodating - no charges and I keep the same seat I select

  I heard the clumping of big clodhopper feet on the foredeck.    Nobody jumps on a boat without asking permission...except... "Shirley!    I see you made it south to Nadi." "Hi, Dave!    Yeah, your little mosquito friends told me you had come down here.    Figured I'd pay a visit." "And you've got your signature purple mohawk back, I see." "Yeah, it's a big hit during sevusevu.    You know what the chiefs wear under those sulas?    Nothing.    Nada.    Ask me how I know." "I'll pass, thanks.    You know I'm heading back in about a week, right?" "Yeah, you had mentioned the standard tourist visa - four months, right?" "Yep.    Gotta leave the country and get that new visa every four months.    Unless you apply for the two month extension.    Which takes three months to be granted, so if you don't apply right away..." "I get the picture.    Not unlike a lot of places." "So I have

 "Good evening, friends.  Welcome to our weekly AA meeting.  Alcohol Apostates welcomes all, forgives all, rejects none.  Are there any newcomers here tonight?" Me (raising hand):  "Hello, my name is Dave." All (in unison): "Hi Dave." "Yeah, I...I...well it's hard to explain..." "That's ok, Dave, we've all been there." "Uh, ok.  Well it was like this.  I didn't know there was a Happy Hour* at the marina bar.  I only wanted a bag of ice to, you know, go back to the boat and make G&Ts.  So I paid for my single beer and didn't look at the change.  And...and before you know it, I was at the bulletin board where they announced that tonight was Happy Hour* with shorty Fiji Bitters on special.  $4 FJD.  That's less than $2 USD." "Go on, son.  We know it's tough." "And...and I didn't go back, even though Happy Hour*  had just started.  I...I feel so...ashamed..."  (Weeps uncontro

 Gary came by as I was putting another bow line to the wall.  "Have you been out to the outer harbor?  It's blowing a hoolie out there." I got the context.  Storm with strong winds.  I noticed the boat slewing more than usual and was tightening up the lines.   Then I went inside to check the progress of Kevin.  Did I forget to mention the second storm system trailing along after Judy?  Oops.  Cat 2 now.  Gale warnings out.  And Kevin has taken a distinct left turn bringing it closer to Fiji. All extraneous shit on the deck is stowed.  Even the big genoa sheets are in the lazarette.   So what am I going to do?  I'm going to the bar.  I want to see a hoolie.